4. July 27th, 2018 Bonavista Penninsula, Newfoundland

July 28, 2018

July 27, 2018 Trinity, Trinity Bay

Lets get serious. Why would anyone go to Newfoundland? Be honest. There’s really only one reason to go to Newfoundland and that’s to see Puffins. The Puffin is the gold standard of the cute-bird-group. This morning Maria and I headed north on the Bonavista Penninsula to Elliston where there’s a point that juts out for a view across a channel where hundreds of Puffins nest. We parked and started walking out but were stopped by an Asian lady coming back who was beside herself with joy describing to us how a Puffin came right up to her. She was practically crying with joy. Does any other bird inspire that reaction? Once we got to the viewing point we joined five other Puffin aficionados for the show. They’re just funny and cute, and beautiful. Great characters. One puffin flew across to our viewing spot and hung around within a few feet of us for no other reason than to entertain us with some great poses.

After a good deal of Puffin viewing we drove over to Bonavista Point, the end of the peninsula, and took in whales from all sides of the point. This spot had a good deal of tourists. On the way to the point we drove through the city of Bonavista and it looked like a very tired place. Busy, but old and worn out. I had heard on CBC that Newfoundland is suffering from its younger population leaving for jobs elsewhere – which is a big problem in rural USA also. In 1992 the government of Canada completely halted all cod fishing due to depleted stocks, leaving 30,000 people in Newfoundland and Labrador unemployed and from what I’ve read, the province has never fully recovered from what is known as the “Moratorium”.

On our way to lunch at the “Bonavista Social Club”, a well known restaurant in Upper Amherst Cove, we passed a small coastal village of about twenty houses that was completely deserted. Spooky. May have been a victim of the moratorium. But the Bonavista Social Club and its town, Upper Amherst Cove which is also about twenty houses and just west of the deserted village, seems to be doing very well. I heard a report on CBC (Canada’s NPR) the other day about the restaurant and how the people who started it figured out that tourism was one place where they could create jobs and how the restaurant has reinvigorated the town. The restaurant has a broad stunning view from a hill side down to Blackhead Bay. Place reminds me of a more refined Parker Pie in West Glover, Vt., except the location here is astounding. Restaurant was full of seemingly happy families with moms, dads, kids laughing and telling stories without a cell phone in sight. There is cell reception up here, but the cell phone/social media culture is way below the radar. Great ambiance.

When Canadians ask us where we’re from, Maria and I apologize for being from the USA where our idiot President has insulted Canada too many times. I also assure them that all the Americans I know are completely embarrassed. The Canadians then tell us no need to apologize and that they feel sorry for us. But one guy did ask us how we could have elected him. I have my crude explanation about a black president, a woman who ran for president, and a bunch of gays wanting equal rights being more than too many Americans could handle.

After lunch headed for what was reported to be the best hike in the area – The Skerwink Trail. Another coastal trail with mind bending views. The pictures tell it all.